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Hobbies

Sambaar Podi: Our Family Recipe


I’ve not been very fond of sambaar, especially the ones served in restaurants, which seem to serve something quite ghastly. My husband, on the other hand, loves it.

In traditional TamBrahm households, each meal typically consisted of three courses of rice. Course one, sambaar with rice, course two, rasam with rice, and course three, curd with rice. Every course has its share of accompaniments (poriyals, pachidis, pickles, appalam etc).

That’s all great during wedding festivities, when there’s an army of cooks to prepare (and serve) such elaborate meals. And of course, one must earn the right to enjoy such meals through intense calorie-burning activities.

In our mostly sedentary modern city life, so many courses and elaborate meals are both unnecessary and impractical. My mother adopted a very practical approach: two courses and one vegetable accompaniment. She’d make rasam (which I always preferred over sambaar), and include the lentils in it. Thakkali sambaar (tomato sambaar) we’d always tease her. The second course remained the universally enjoyable thayir saadam (curd-rice).

The Family Sambaar Recipe

I never learned to make rasam or sambaar (or any dish, for that matter) before I got married. It wasn’t for lack of trying on my mother’s part, but rather my rebellion at being forced to learn “womanly” skills to be eligible for marriage. Fortunately for me, I did find the most suitable husband who knows how to cook! So I learned to cook mostly from him and his parents. Unfortunately, he also loves sambaar, and being a North Indian, has no idea how it’s made!

Over the years, I’ve attempted to make sambaar at home with varying degrees of failure. Each time I’d call my mother to ask for her recipe and note it down somewhere, only to misplace it and call her again the next time.

My latest attempt, however, seemed moderately successful. And funnily, it seemed like an absolute breeze, which convinced me to make it more often. So, this time, I’m saving the recipe here for ready reference.

Step 1: The Sambaar Podi

The key to sambaar lies in the powdered spice mixture, aka the podi. Once ground, the batch lasts a surprisingly long time. Given how infrequently I make sambaar, my batch has easily lasted a few years, but I wouldn’t recommend keeping it around for that long!

“Take note of the order of these items and it will be easier to remember the proportions,” my mother advised.

“One of Urad,
Three-quarters of Toor,
Half of Chana daal,
Half the quantity of Chana daal for Pepper, and
Half the quantity of Pepper for Methi.
Take three of Dhania.
Roast everything, cool and grind to a powder.
One spoon of sambaar podi is half this powder and half red chilli powder.”

Sambaar powders available in the market typically include red chilli powder. But my mother’s sambaar powder skips it so that she can reuse the same mix for both rasam and sambaar! In our household, it helps to not add red chillis so that we can tweak the spice level for my in-laws who aren’t comfortable with red chilli powder.

Here’s a detailed table with the proportions and ingredients.

ProportionItem (Tamil)Item (Hindi)Item (English)
3Kotthamalli VithaiSabut DhaniaCoriander seeds
1UlanthuDhuli UradSkinned Black Gram
3/4Thauram paruppuArhar daalSplit Pigeon Pea
1/2Kadalai paruppuChana daalSplit Chickpeas / Bengal Gram
1/4MilaguKaali MirchBlack Pepper
1/8VenthiyamMethiFenugreek

The sambaar podi is as simple as roasting these items till they are aromatic, and then grinding them to a powder. Store for use later.

Step 2: Prep the Elements of Sambaar

The essential elements of sambaar are (for 1 litre):

  • Arhar / Toor daal (3/4 cup)
  • Tamarind water (use 1 medium-sized lemon a reference for the quantity of tamarind)
  • One vegetable (aka the taan). Potatoes, Moringa, Capsicum, Okra, Eggplant, Ash Gourd, Radish. Anything goes. Heck, if you like the restaurant variety, use beans, carrots and onions. Just don’t serve that to me.
  • The spices (1/2 spoon of sambaar podi, 1/2 spoon of red chilli powder, a pinch of asafoetida, a sprig of fresh curry leaves)
  • The Thalippu / Tadka (1/2 spoon mustard seeds, 1-2 dried red chillis)

The key to making sambaar fast is multitasking. Let the multiple gas burners do the heavy lifting by simultaneously doing the following:

  1. Pressure cook the Toor daal with a little turmeric powder.
  2. If the cooker is big enough, you can place the hard vegetables in the same cooker. For soft veggies that cook easily, pressure cooking may be a bit too much. You can add those in later.
  3. Boil the tamarind in water for a bit and let it cool.

With everything already partially cooking, and while you’re waiting for the tamarind water to cool, you’re free to prep any other dish, or perhaps do the dishes, or just take a little nap.

Step 3: Bring Everything Together

  1. Once the tamarind water has cooled enough so that you can touch it, extract the juice/pulp and remove the rind and seeds, if any. Mash with your fingers or use a spoon and a sieve.
  2. To the tamarind water, add the sambaar podi, red chilli powder and a pinch of asafoetida. Boil this solution for a couple of minutes.
  3. If your vegetables haven’t yet been cooked, add them to the tamarind water and cook them.
  4. Once the vegetables are cooked, add the cooked toor daal (with the water). The daal already has turmeric, so no need to add that in.
  5. Add salt.
  6. Pinch/crush fresh curry leaves with your fingers and add them in right at the end.
  7. Finish the sambaar with the sizzling, satisfying sound of the tadka: Heat 1-2 spoons of oil/ghee and add the mustard seeds and dried red chillis. Once the seeds crackle, add them to the sambaar.

And that’s it! Making sambaar involves several components, but proper planning makes it an easy dish to prepare.

Bonus Recipe: Rasam

Rasam is typically a thin, almost clear soup. The steps for a regular rasam are very similar to those of sambaar. The key differences:

  1. Instead of vegetables, we add tomatoes (usually cut into quarters).
  2. Instead of adding red chilli powder, we add black pepper powder and cumin powder. So, along with the sambaar podi, my mother keeps a separate powdered mix of black pepper and cumin.
  3. Instead of using the entire cooked toor daal, use only the water of the daal. That’s the “proper” way. But if rasam is your only protein source, as was the case in our household, just go ahead and add the whole cooked daal and make a thicker rasam.
  4. Instead of curry leaves, use fresh coriander leaves.

Every family has their version of the sambaar and rasam podis. And of course, there are variations of each dish too. Depending on what vegetables go in the sambaar, the recipe changes a little. The most notable one being a special fresh coconut-based bitter gourd sambaar.

Then there’s melagu rasam or milagu tanni (which the British famously appropriated as mulligatawny), which is a spicier variation (and for me, an absolutely soothing one!) There’s also a tamarind-free lemon rasam. Of course, I don’t know how to make any of these, but in my journey to learn our culinary heritage, I’ll hopefully get there soon. Let’s make one recipe at a time.

Categories
Hobbies

A Merry “Kishmish” Cake


We’ve always hacked our way into baking a cake. We didn’t have an oven and I was trying to avoid using refined flour. So, our experiments in cake-baking have been mixed, often ad-libbing and freestyling the ingredients. I learned the hard way that not all recipes were that flexible. So, this time, I decided to follow a recipe that I’ve wanted to try for a long time—the traditional Christmas Cake.

We had a new air fryer and I decided to cave in and use refined flour and white sugar. It’s still eggless, though!

I’ve tried this recipe twice now, and the second time, I substituted half of the refined flour with whole wheat flour. This second cake was a bit more crumbly and we could taste the flour, so, the next time, we’ll try substituting less than half of the refined flour.

For my convenience, I wrote down the ingredient list separately, divided into different parts that I needed to mix separately, so that I wasn’t staring at one long list!

Part 1: Make the Kishmish Merry

Cashews, Walnuts, Raisins, Almonds, Dates, Figs… Chop whatever dry fruits you have available and soak them in rum (or ornge juice) for a few days.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge if you’re soaking these for more than 2 days.

Part 2: Whisk the Creamy Ingredients

  • 1 cup Powdered Sugar
  • 1/2 cup Butter
  • 1/3 cup Curd

Time-Saving Tip: If the butter is hard, use a hot water “bath” to soften it. You can do this right at the beginning and while you wait for the butter to melt, you can gather the rest of the ingredients.

Part 3: Sift the Spicy Ingredients

  • 1 cup Flour (Maida)*
  • 3/4 tsp Baking Powder
  • 1/4 tsp Baking Soda
  • 1/4 tsp Salt
  • 1 1/2 tbsp Cocoa Powder
  • 1/4 tsp Ginger Powder (Saunth)
  • 1/4 tsp Clove Powder
  • 1/4 tsp Cinnamon Powder
  • 1/8 tsp Nutmeg Powder

* For a slightly healthier version, you could experiment with about 20-30% of wholewheat flour instead of just refined flour. But at your own risk!

Part 4: Prepare the Curdled Milk

Adding vinegar to milk will split the milk. I’m still not sure if we should let it sit for a long time, so I do this at the end, lest I have any lumps of paneer in the cake!

  • 1/3 cup Milk
  • 1 tsp Vanilla Essence
  • 1 tsp Vinegar

Part 5: Let’s Get Everything Together!

Now that the ingredients are ready, we can prepare the cake tin and preheat the baking apparatus of choice (a home-style pressure cooker, a covered saucepan, an air fryer or an oven).

Grease the pan and line it with butter paper.

Note to self: Do not keep it inside the oven!

  1. Mix the sifted dry ingredients (part 3) with the creamy stuff (part 2)
  2. Add in the curdled milk (part 4) gradually.
  3. Add the merry fruits (part 1)
  4. Pour into the prepared cake tin. Tap a few times, and then place it inside the baking apparatus.
  5. Wait.

The time to cook varies depending on the temperature. I used an air fryer at 150 degrees C for 40 minutes.

If you’re using a hacked makeshift oven, then you may not be able to control the temperature, so keep a close eye so that the cake doesn’t get burnt or stay undercooked—I’m guilty of both!

Use a knife to check for doneness.

I had some extra powdered sugar left over, so I sieved it over the cake to give it a snowy look. But it will taste delicious even without that.

Enjoy!

How To Get the Measurements Right

The one thing I’ve learned through my little baking experience is that measurements matter! So, I followed the measurements of everything to the “T”.

The ingredients can broadly be categorised into two heads:

  1. The flavours: We can play with the flavours of the cake and freestyle them to taste. These include dry fruits, cocoa, spices and vanilla essence.
  2. The cake base: The wrong proportion of these ingredients can ruin the cake, and so these are absolutely non-negotiable. The flour, milk, curd, sugar and butter along with what I call the “baking potion”—the things that make the cake fluffy! The baking potion includes baking powder, baking soda, salt and vinegar.

Since I didn’t have any proper measuring equipment, I used a tiny medicine measuring cup to first figure out the capacity of the different bowls and glasses we had and used those utensils that best matched the following capacities:

  • 1 cup = 240 ml
  • 1/2 cup = 120 ml
  • 1/3 cup = 80 ml

The Inspiration

This recipe isn’t mine. It is adapted from recipes I found online, and modified to suit what we had available. Here is the original recipe from where I borrowed the measurements and ingredient list:

Previous Cake Experiments

The “Unrefined Cake”

A “Date” With a Cake