“What’s that?” I asked our friendly cab driver.
“Oh, that’s nothing. Just some old ruins,” he replied in a laid back tone, that could only be described as Goan.
The Churches of Old Goa are staple tourist fare. And like diligent tourists, we paid a visit to the most famous of them all – the Basilica of Bom Jesus and the adjoining Se Cathedral. Both sites had ingredients one would expect from a medieval church – massive in size, walls engraved, high ceilings housing intricate chandeliers and a presence that makes you speak in whispers, lest anyone else hears. With the sea of humans, though, the churches were reduced to fancy backgrounds for selfie enthusiasts – even with signboards and staff members explicitly asking people not to take pictures with people in them.
Making our way out of Se Cathedral, I noticed a lean brick tower in the distance.
As we made our way around the streets of Old Goa, the tower became taller, and then hid behind some trees.
The cab driver looked in the rear mirror. “There really is nothing there. Just ruins.”
I looked at my fellow travellers hoping for at least one of them to share my eagerness to visit that lonely tower.
After a few minutes the driver asked, “You want to go there? We can make a short stop.”
As soon as we reached, I jumped out of the car with a new friend. With others waiting, our instructions were clear. Go there, take a few pictures and head back as soon as possible!
Up close, the tower revealed itself to be just a fraction of what it must have been a few centuries ago. There was a large open space in front, and a large hall just behind it. At its fullest, it may have been much grander than the more illustrious buildings we had just visited.
‘Ruins of St. Augustine Complex’ read the signboard on one of the large stone bricks. Built in 1602 and abandoned in 1835, this church collapsed within the next few years. The silence of the space seemed to speak about its neglect and the lost grandeur.
Amid the spectacular ruins, not all seemed gloomy, though. A few pillars along the side of the fence spoke of survival even as the rest of the land stood barren.
I longed to spend more time within the hall behind the tower, but felt contented that I had the opportunity to visit. I grabbed my pictures and hurried back to the cab.
Back home, on digging around the web, I came across an interesting story surrounding the Church. In Hunting for a Georgian queen in Goa Srinath Perur writes about a martyred Queen, and the search for a missing relic that continued into the 21st century.
And a bonus bit of trivia – the eerie song, Gumnaam hai koi was filmed at the ruins.
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In response to the Daily Post’s Weekly Photo Challenge: what is guaranteed to distract you? What is your “Ooh, shiny!”?
15 replies on “Still standing”
What a great ruin. I can see why you wanted to spend longer. So much tourism happens all of rush these days because of other people’s agendas. Still it’s good to get out and see these wonders all the same.
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Absolutely. The other churches were very noisy. We don’t take canned tour packages. Had a bad experience once – and now we create our own itineraries and take public transport or walk if we can.
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Yes, self guided travel is the best.
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Did you get a bite of St Francis Xavier while you were there?
Gotta love that Goan cuisine.
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The relics of St Francis are open for public viewing only once in ten years – at least that’s what I have read. There was quite a big crowd there, and we just got in and got out – saw the interiors only through the screen of the phone!
We’re vegetarians – so Goan food wasn’t really on the cards 🙂
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Interesting and excellent.
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Thank you 🙂
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Very nice and interesting piece.
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Thank you so much 🙂
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Nice shot! It looks like it could topple over any day!
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Thank you 🙂 yeah it does… The majority of the building had collapsed within 10 or 11 years of abandonment. It’s a miracle this one is still standing over 200 years on
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Wow..why does it not fall? Faith?
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Well, I never thought of it that way! May be something to do with the ground, foundation, or materials. With so many older buildings around, I’m amazed that this one collapsed at all. I fancy something else happened – Maybe it was attacked, but of course that’s my own conspiracy theory.
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Fascinating find.
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Yup… And lucky too 😀
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